La Route d'Emeraude by Isabey: launched in 1924. Originally created by Isabey's chief perfumer, Robert Bienaimé.
The fanciful name refers to the so-called Emerald Route. The route delivered precious stones and other valuables from the southern regions of Asia, to Iran and the Near East.
Bottle designed in 1924 by Julien Viard, perfume bottle and stopper, clear and frosted crystal, accented with grey patina. Box decorated with scrolling floral motifs. Molded J.Viard. 4 7/8" tall.
Wow! This actually smells vintage! The perfumer has created a well blended reformulation of a long forgotten fragrance. When applied to my skin, I get a burst of zesty bergamot followed by cinnamon dusted jammy rose petals. Then, a flourishing white floral pleasure garden appears. Two types of jasmine: the night blooming Sambac jasmine and Moroccan jasmine lend their absolutes to the heart of the fragrance. This pairing of jasmine lends a sharp, green note that compliments the fresh bergamot still shining through to the lusty center of the perfume. The voluptuous tuberose, who's own sweetness enhances that of the orange blossom, suggests carnal opulence. The drydown unfurls a precious ambergris and musk base, enveloped by a sensual embrace of balsamic benzoin and dreamy vanilla.
In 2014, Isabey introduced a limited edition extrait for La Route d'Emeraude. Known as Perle de La Route d'Emeraude, the fragrance is housed inside of a 50 ml round natural spray flacon based on the 1924 "perle" designed flacon. In this case, instead of the pearly nacre that decorated the original 1920s bottles, La Route d'Emeraude is housed inside of an opaque gilded glass flacon. The presentation box is covered in an apricot colored leather and lined with rose gold satin. The extrait is a concentrated and intensified version of La Route d'Emeraude. You can still purchase this directly from Parfum Isabey's website.
My thoughts on Perle de La Route d'Emeraude:
This is a richer, intense version of the former perfume. The fragrance opens with a lush shower of fresh petals. This masterful blending combines honeyed orange blossoms mixed with bubblegum jasmine. Fruity ylang ylang provides a trace of a ripe tropical banana, while bright bergamot lifts the heaviness of the white flowers to give it some buoyancy. A subtle hint of a green rose plays hide and seek amongst the irises. Cinnamon adds a lively counterpoint to the slightly saccharine bouquet. A deep ambery base reveals a balsamic marriage of benzoin and vanilla layered over a powdery, musky base. This would be ideal to be worn for an intimate evening, the perfume begs one to get closer as it stays quite close to the skin with an elegantly restrained projection.
The fanciful name refers to the so-called Emerald Route. The route delivered precious stones and other valuables from the southern regions of Asia, to Iran and the Near East.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? I have no notes on the original 1924 composition, but I imagine it may be similar to the modern formula.
Bottle:
Fate of the Fragrance:
The perfume was discontinued probably sometime in the 1930s.
In 2012, Isabey released a modern interpretation of La Route d'Emeraude by perfumer Jean Jacques and designer Rania Naim. The name was borrowed from the 1920s perfume and was inspired by journeys to the emerald triangle of Thailand, Laos and Cambodia. You can still purchase this fragrance at Parfums Isabey's website.
- Top notes: bergamot, rose oil and cinnamon.
- Middle notes: Sambac jasmine, Moroccan jasmine absolute, orange blossom and tuberose.
- Base notes: amber, vanilla, benzoin and musk
Bottle:
The 2012 edition of the bottle is a modernized version of the antique original by Julien Viard. It was contained inside of a buttery yellow presentation box that opened like French doors. It was covered in a pattern similar to that on the original box.
In 2017, the bottle for La Route d'Emeraude Eau de Parfum was given an update, by combining modern design with a 1920s Isabey bottle originally produced by Czech master glass craftsman, Ludwig Moser. You can purchase the 50ml flacon directly from Parfums Isabey's website. A 10ml travel flacon of the eau de parfum was also released which is great for carrying in your handbag.
I believe the fragrance may have been slightly tweaked, though I have no confirmation.
From Isabey:
"The storyIntroduced in 1924, “La Route d’Emeraude” – The road to the Emerald Triangle from Isabey was designed by Julien Viard, in a faceted bottle and a jewel-like case, reminiscent of the splendor of the Far East. This perfume is inspired, with a touch of nostalgia, by the journey leading to the “Emerald Triangle” (Thailand, Laos and Cambodia), filled with the scents of Jasmine Sambac and blooming flowers. Many Orient lovers took the path to these faraway lands and experienced sensations that are recaptured in this re-edition of the mythical perfume. Gold leather (cordovan) effect, distinctive of The Emerald Road previous designs, has been preserved. The fragrance has been slightly changed.
The FragranceThe Emerald Road explores the different facets of Sambac Jasmine, bewitching and opulent. Begin this experience and feel the sparkling freshness of Bergamot spiced by Cinnamon and softened by Rose essence, unveiling a flamboyant floral bouquet. The Sambac jasmine, opulent and seductive, is composing with the Orange flower and Tuberose, a seductive harmony of powerful white flowers, enriched with Ylang Ylang. Adorned with precious notes of Amber, Benzoin, Vanilla and Musk, this scented jewel leaves a unique and enveloping trail."
I received samples directly from Panouge for the purposes of completing this article on the modern fragrances La Route d'Emeraude and Perle de La Route d'Emeraude. All opinions are my own.
My impression of La Route d'Emeraude:
My impression of La Route d'Emeraude:
Wow! This actually smells vintage! The perfumer has created a well blended reformulation of a long forgotten fragrance. When applied to my skin, I get a burst of zesty bergamot followed by cinnamon dusted jammy rose petals. Then, a flourishing white floral pleasure garden appears. Two types of jasmine: the night blooming Sambac jasmine and Moroccan jasmine lend their absolutes to the heart of the fragrance. This pairing of jasmine lends a sharp, green note that compliments the fresh bergamot still shining through to the lusty center of the perfume. The voluptuous tuberose, who's own sweetness enhances that of the orange blossom, suggests carnal opulence. The drydown unfurls a precious ambergris and musk base, enveloped by a sensual embrace of balsamic benzoin and dreamy vanilla.
Perle de La Route d'Emeraude:
In 2014, Isabey introduced a limited edition extrait for La Route d'Emeraude. Known as Perle de La Route d'Emeraude, the fragrance is housed inside of a 50 ml round natural spray flacon based on the 1924 "perle" designed flacon. In this case, instead of the pearly nacre that decorated the original 1920s bottles, La Route d'Emeraude is housed inside of an opaque gilded glass flacon. The presentation box is covered in an apricot colored leather and lined with rose gold satin. The extrait is a concentrated and intensified version of La Route d'Emeraude. You can still purchase this directly from Parfum Isabey's website.
- Top notes: cinnamon, orange blossom absolute, bergamot
- Middle notes: iris, tuberose, jasmine essence, rose essence, ylang ylang essence
- Base notes: musk, tonka bean, vanilla, benzoin, amber
My thoughts on Perle de La Route d'Emeraude:
This is a richer, intense version of the former perfume. The fragrance opens with a lush shower of fresh petals. This masterful blending combines honeyed orange blossoms mixed with bubblegum jasmine. Fruity ylang ylang provides a trace of a ripe tropical banana, while bright bergamot lifts the heaviness of the white flowers to give it some buoyancy. A subtle hint of a green rose plays hide and seek amongst the irises. Cinnamon adds a lively counterpoint to the slightly saccharine bouquet. A deep ambery base reveals a balsamic marriage of benzoin and vanilla layered over a powdery, musky base. This would be ideal to be worn for an intimate evening, the perfume begs one to get closer as it stays quite close to the skin with an elegantly restrained projection.
No comments:
Post a Comment